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In the Heart of the Sierras by James M. Hutchings (1888)


Table of Contents.


CHAPTER I. is an Epitome of the Voiced Impressions of Eminent Personages concerning Yo Semite.

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CHAPTER II. Causes Leading to the Discovery of Yo Semite. The Unparalleled Influx of Gold Miners; Jealously of the Indians; Breaking out of Hostilities; Official Testimony of Their Cruelties and Murders; Mustering in of the First Company of Volunteers; Initiative Conflict with the Foe.

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CHAPTER III. How and When Discovered. Formation and Organization of the Mariposa Battalion; Its Line of March; Placed in Charge of the U.S. Scene of Hostilities; Peace Messengers Sent to the Indian Villages; Numbers of the Different Tribes; A Portion of the Hostiles Accept the Proferred Terms; First Intimation of the Existence of Such a Place as the Yo Semite Valley; Capture of an Indian Village; Interview of the Old Indian Chief, Ten-ie-ya, with the Officer in Command; The Yo Semites Defiant; An Expedition Resolved Upon against Them; Yo Semites Met upon the Way; The Yo Semite Valley First Seen by White Men.

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CHAPTER IV. The Name, “Yo Semite.” Its Origin and Meaning; Legendary Tradition Concerning It; Why Spelled Yo Semite, instead of Yosemite.

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CHAPTER V. Close of the Indian Campaign. Flight of the Yo Semite Indians; Captives taken; Start for the Reservation, but all Escape in a Single Night; New Campaign Resolved upon; Three of Ten-ie-ya’s Sons Captured; The Indians Lure Their Pursuers into a Trap; Escape of a Prisoner; Ten-ie-ya’s Youngest Son Shot Dead; Capture of Ten-ie-ya; His Attempted Escape, and Speech; Surprise of an Indian Village at Lake Ten-ie-ya; Naming of the Lake; March for Yo Semite; End of the Mariposa Indian War.

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CHAPTER VI. Early Historical Incidents. Indians Leave the Reservation; Prospecting Miners Murdered in Yo Semite; the U. S. Expedition against the Indians Returns without Capturing or Killing an Indian; Approximate Extermination of the Yo Semite Tribe by the Monos; Death of Ten-ie-ya. The Last Chief of the Yo Semites; End of Major Savage.

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CHAPTER VII. The First Tourist Visitors to Yo Semite; Difficulties to be Surmounted; Old-time Mining Scenes; Indian Guides Secured for Yo Semite; Origin of the Nomenclature “Bridal Veil Fall;” Discovery of Vernal and Nevada Falls; The First View Ever Published of Yo Semite.

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CHAPTER VIII. Early Development and Progress at Yo Semite. Construction of Trails; Pioneer Hotel Building, and Hotel Keepers; The Old Hutchings House; The Pioneer Photographer of Yo Semite.

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CHAPTER IX. Its First Winter Visitor. Rumors of Snow-drifts Half Filling It; Exploratory Excursion There; Storm Bound; Voyage Down the Flooded Merced River; Two Shipwrecks; Hotel on a Cruise; Unsuccessful Return; Second Attempt to Visit It; A Perilous Journey of Eleven Days Alone; Six Days Wallowing through Snow; A Look into Paradise; Antics of a Grizzly Bear; Successful Termination of the Journey.

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CHAPTER X. Early Day Reviewals. Primitive Method of Transporting Supplies; Mysteries of Packing; Intelligence of Mules; Enormous Weights Packed; A Procession of Oddities; Pack Train Snowed In; Human Help and Brandy Carry Timely Aid; Pioneer Methods of Obtaining Lumber; Annual Number of Tourist Visitors; Influential Helpers in the Cause; Need of India-rubber Adaptability in Accommodations; Progressive Improvements Carried On.

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CHAPTER XI. Cabin Homes at Yo Semite Lamon’s Cabin; Biographical Outline of James C. Lamon; His Lonely Residence There for Two Winters; His Supposed Murder; The Hutchings Cabin; Winter Employments and Experiences; Pleasant Occupation the Secret of Human Happiness; The Orchard and Strawberry Patch; Entrance of the Angel of Sorrow; In Memoriam.

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CHAPTER XII. Congressional and State Enacements Concerning Yo Semite. Act of Congress Granting Yo Semite Valley to the State; Governor’s Proclamation Appointing Its Initial Board of Commissioners; Official Acceptance of the Grant; Adverse Action Towards the Settlers; State Action in Their Behalf; An Incidental Digression; The Settler’s Case before Congress; Reprehensible Representation in the U. S. Senate; Mistaken “Public Policy;” Adverse Rulings of the Supreme Court; Magnanimity of the State Towards the Settlers.

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CHAPTER XIII. Journey and Routes to Yo Semite in Outline. The Seven Routes to the Valley and Big Trees; About Personal Baggage; A Word to Parties Camping; Camping Outfit in Detail; Tents and Their Arrangements.

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CHAPTER XIV. The Main or Trunk Route towards Yo Semite. Excitements at the Wharf; Crossing the Bay; Alcatraces (Alcatraz) Island; Angel Island; Mt. Tamalpais; Goat Island; Oakland Pier, and Its Elegant Waiting Room; Way-Stations; Wild Oats; The C. P. R. R. Monster Transfer Boat Solanao; Straits of Carquinez; Martinez; Popular Amusements of Native Californians; Monte del Diablo; Lanthrop, and Its Diverging Railroads.

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CHAPTER XV. Bay and River Routes to Yo Semite. Scenes at the Wharf; The golden Gate; Fort Point; Islands, En Route; Bays of San Pablo and Suisun; Salmon Fishing on the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers; Mosquitoes; Tules on Fire; Productiveness of Tule Lands; Arrival at the Stockton Wharf.

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CHAPTER XVI. The Milton and Calaveras Big Tree Route. Table of Distances; The City of Stockton; Heavy Freight Enterprises; Deepest Artesian Well in the State; The Various Strata passed through When Boring It; Railroad Ride to Milton; The Stage and Its Drivers; Kind of Country Passing Over; The Mining Village of Murphy’s; How and When the Big Trees Were First Discovered; Road to the Calaveras Grove; Its Commodius Hotel; The Original Big Tree and Its Stump; Walk through the Grove; The South Grove, and Its Trees; Ride Down to Murphy’s; The Newly Discovered Cave There; Calaveras County Caves, and Natural Bridges; Drive through the Mining District; Sonora and Its People; Chinese Camp.

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CHAPTER XVII. The Big Trees in General Their Classification and Naming; Why named Sequoia; Their Distribution, Probable Age, and Rapid Growth; Durability of the Timber; Fossilized Big Trees Found.

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CHAPTER XVIII. The Berenda Route Railroad Ride to Berenda, thence to Raymond; Table of Distances; The Horned Toad and Its Habits; The Gambetta Gold Mines; Grant’s Sulphur Springs; Wawona with Its Hotel and Proprietors; Hill’s Art Studio; Drive to and through the Mariposa Big Tree Grove; Remarkable Size and Characteristics of Its Trees; Wawona Point; The Fresno Grove; A Bear Hunt; The Chil-noo-al-na Falls, and Mrs. Cook’s Poem; Signal Peak; Sublime View of the Sierras Therefrom; Other Points of Interest at Wawona; Scenes on the Way to Yo Semite; The Glorious View from Inspiration Point.

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CHAPTER XIX. The Madera Route to Yo Semite. Its Historic Indian Association; Table of Distances; The Town of Madera; The V Lumber Flume; Lassoing and Branding of Cattle; Coarse Gold Gulch; Town of Fresno Flats; Forest Scenes.

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CHAPTER XX. The Coulterville Route Towns of Modesto and Merced; Table of Distances; Rolling Country; Fossils; The Road Runner; Tarantulas, and Their Enemy; The Stupendous Gold-bearing Mother Vein; Coulterville; Dudley’s Ranch; Bower Cave; Construction of the Coulterville and Yo Semite Turnpike; Scenery on the Road; Pilot Peak; The Merced Grove of Big Trees; View from Buena Vista Gap; The Great Cañon of the Merced River.

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CHAPTER XXI. The Mariposa Route Mariposans the First Whites to Enter Yo Semite; Table of Distances; Mining Scenes by the Way; Various Methods of Mining for Gold; California Quail; A Boy That “Didn’t Know Nuffink;” The Red-headed Woodpecker; Mr. Horace Greeley’s Description of a California Forest; His Terrible Ride to Yo Semite.

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CHAPTER XXII. The Milton and Big Oak Flat Route to Yo Semite. Table of Distances; Milton’s; The Reservoir House; Copperopolis; Table Mountain; Goodwin’s; Chinese Camp; Moffitt’s Bridge; Priest’s Hotel; Big Oak Flat; Hamilton’s; Crocker’s; Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees; Crane Flat; Foretaste of Grand Scenes; Crossing the Snow Belt in Spring; Horses on Snow-shoes; Look into the Merced Cañon; Magnificent View of Yo Semite Valley from the Big Oak Flat Road.

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CHAPTER XXIII. Scenes to Be Witnessed from the Floor of the Valley. The Ride up It; What the Yo Semite Valley Is; Theories about Its Formation; The Fissures; Eroding Action of Glaciers over a Mile in Thickness; Uncertain Time of the Glacial Period; Natural Phenomena; Trails Built to Grand Scenic Standpoints; The Three Hotels and Their Landlords; Sinning’s Cabinet Shop; Art Studios; Photo Establishments; Store; Mrs. Glynn’s; Livery Stables; Guides; Public School; The Yo Semite Chapel; The Guardian; Forest Trees, Shrubs, Flowers, and Ferns of Yo Semite; Trout Fishing; Basis of Measurements; Tables of Distances; Legend of the Lost Arrow; Yo Semite Falls; Mirror Lake; Legend of Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah; Old Moraines; The New Hotel; Doings of a “Cyclone;” Rocky Point; The Three Brothers; El Capitan; The Ribbon Fall; Enchantment Point; Picturesque Road to Cascade Falls; The Pohono Bridge and Avenue; Bridal Veil Fall; Indian Dread of “Pohono;” Curious Phenomena; The Cathedral Spires; Profile, or Fissure Mountain; The Sentinel.

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CHAPTER XXIV. Manners and Customers of the Indians. Indian Tom, His Life Being Saved Induces Him to Tell All That He Knows about His Race; The Indian Camp; Present Number of Indians; Acorns Their Staple Breadstuff; How Prepared for Food; Other Edible Luxuries; Fandangos; Religious Beliefs; Burning of Their Dead.

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CHAPTER XXV. To Vernal and Nevada Falls. The Anderson Trail; Register Rock; Subline View from the New Bridge; The Vernal Fall; Delightful Ride up the Trail; The Cap of Liberty and Nevada Fall; Snow’s “Casa Nevada;” Eleven Feet of Snow; Diamond Cascade; "Taking a Bawth” on the Silver Apron; Emerald Pool; Scene from the Top of the Vernal and Nevada Falls; The Ladders; Fern Grotto.

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CHAPTER XXVI. Grizzly Peak, Half Dome, and Cloud’s Rest. Ascent of Grizzly Peak by Mr. Chas. A. Bailey; The Dangerous Yet Compensating Climb; Early Futile Attempts to Ascend the Half Dome; Anderson’s Perseverance Crowned with Success; The View Therefrom without Its Counterpart on Earth; Others Who Have Climbed It; The Rope Torn Down by an Avalanche; Thrilling Adventure of Two Young Men When Engaged in Replacing It; The marvelously Comprehensive View of the Sierras from Cloud’s Rest; The Way Thither over Old Moraines, and Past Glacier-polished Mountain-sides; The “Umbrella Tree” Near the Top of Nevada Fall; The Wonderful “Snow Plant” of the Sierras.

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CHAPTER XXVII. Glacier Point and its Galaxy of Glories. The Glacier Point Trail and Its Builder, James McCauley; Remarkable Scenes on the Way; Union Point; The Agassiz Column; Moran Point; The Sierras from McCauley’s Porch; Startling View from Glacier Point; Derrick Dodd’s Tough Hen Story; Sentinel Dome; Ascent of Mt. Starr King; Sugar Loaf Shape of the South Dome from the Glacier Cañon Trail; The Too-lool-we-ack Fall and Cañon; Picturesque Road from Chinquapin Flat to Glacier Point.

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CHAPTER XXVIII. The Upper Yo Semite Fall, Eagle Peak, Lake Ten-ie-ya and High Sierra. Columbia Rock, and Transport Point; Wonderful Changes and Effects of the Falling Water Beneath the Upper Yo Semite Fall; The Cave There; Frolics of Yo Semite Creek at the Top of the Fall before making Its Leap Down; Awe-inspiring View from Eagle Peak; Dr. Newman’s Eulogy There; Forest-arched Ride to Beautiful Lake Ten-ie-ya; The Mountains around It; John L. Murphy and His Cabin; A Curious Phenomenon; Miles of Glacier-polished Granite; The Ascent of Mt. Hoffmann; Sources of Yo Semite Creek; Upper Verge of the Timber Line; Soda Springs; Ascent of Mt. Dana; Evidences of Ancient Glaciers Eight Hundred Feet in Thickness on Top of It; Living Glaciers; Inexpressibly Sublime View from the Summit of Mt. Dana; Ascent of Mt. Lyell; Its Large Glacier; Sources of the Tuolumne and Merced Rivers; Scenes on the Way When Returning to Yo Semite.

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CHAPTER XXIX. The Seasons at Yo Semite Valley. The Best Time to Visit It; Its Captivating Dress in Autumn; Winter at Yo Semite; The Great Storm and Flood of 1867; The Snow Fall; Kind of Snow-shoes Used; Enchantingly Beautiful Cloud and Snow Effects; Icicles a Hundred and Twenty Feet in Length; An Ice Cone Five Hundred and Fifty Feet in Height; Magical Changes and Brilliant Hues of the Sunlight upon the Falling Water; The End.

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Pom-pom-pa-sa! ['Leaping frogs!'—The Three Brothers]
Pom-pom-pa-sa!

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